Anthony Vaccarello is doing something different at Saint Laurent. While most designers flood their runways with 80+ looks to prove how wide their range is, Vaccarello is keeping it tight literally just three or four core silhouettes, repeated in different colors, fabrics, and details.
It all started with Spring 2023, and the formula hasn’t changed. Fast-forward to Spring 2026, and Saint Laurent is still about focus, precision, and a clear message. Some critics call it “repetitive.” Others call it genius. Either way, it’s working.
Why? First, it’s all about clarity. In an era where fashion scrolls past us in seconds on Instagram, Vaccarello wants Saint Laurent to stick. You don’t need 100 looks to make a point you need five that everyone remembers. That sharp tuxedo jacket? That black column dress? Those are burned into the culture because they’re shown again and again.
Second, it’s about identity. Saint Laurent has always thrived on recognizability. Think about it: when Hailey Bieber or Zoë Kravitz steps out in one of those sleek Vaccarello gowns, you don’t even need the caption to know who designed it. That’s the point. He’s not designing for everyone he’s defining what the Saint Laurent person looks like.
And third, it’s not actually new. Yves Saint Laurent himself played this game. His couture shows often circled around a single shape or silhouette, reworked across fabrics and shades. Vaccarello is pulling straight from that playbook, but he’s giving it a modern, Instagram-era update.
So while some houses are obsessed with excess, Saint Laurent is proof that less can be more. Vaccarello isn’t trying to please the entire market he’s laser-focused on making Saint Laurent’s codes louder, stronger, and more recognizable than ever. In fashion, sometimes discipline is the biggest flex.
